-Avoid touching/ handling your frog. Frogs are fragile and sensitive to chemicals/ oils on your skin. Although not toxic to humans, frogs carry bacteria.
-Avoid placing them near sunlight or near sources of heat or cold. Do not place frogs near windows, air vents or sources of heat or cold. Monitor temperatures closely.
-You will essentially maintain a vivarium which is a complete ecosystem that has flora (plants) and micro fauna. (Plants and beneficial insects).
-You will need to secure a stable source of feeder insects such as Dubia roaches or crickets. Find vendors near you so that you always have food available.
Food: Insectivorous: Feed Dubia Roaches or Crickets- Medium for adults. These can make up a large portion of the diet, with other foods like flies and cut earthworms being rotated into the diet regularly. Pinhead crickets can also be fed to very young frogs. For size reference: Insect size no larger than the width between the frogs eyes. Feed juveniles daily and adults 3 days per week, with 3-10 food items per frog each feeding. Monitor weight and adjust feeding accordingly.
Use Repashy Calcium Plus daily. Vitamin A and a Carotenoid weekly. Environment: Your frog vivarium will need to maintain a tropical environment. The temperature will need to be maintained between mid-high 70s with a basking spot up top up to high 80s. Temperatures over 90F+ can quickly be fatal. Humidity will typically need to be kept at 50-70% levels. It basically comes down to adding room heat or cooling. Humidity is maintained by the enclosed vivarium and misting with pure water (not tap) several times a day. Use RO/ reverse-osmosis / distilled for misting and spring water or RO that has been reconstituted minerals with trace elements back into water for water dish. Look at Sea-Chem’s Replenish remineralizing product.
–Key. Consider an automated misting system as misting is vital. A water dish is needed and needs to be cleaned daily. Enclosing the top of the vivarium with glass instead of a screen. Do allow for ventilation protected against frog escapes. Add live tropical plants and clean up insects such as isopods and springtails to help clean the vivarium. 10 gallons per frog of vivarium space is recommended. Ensure the top is free of any gaps that frogs can escape from. LED lights for plants. Other lights produce heat which can be hazardous. Low level UVB tropical light ok, UVB bulb with 2.0 or 5.0 . Do not use high wattage heat lamps. Bringing home:
Avoid extreme temperatures on your frogs journey home. If you ever had aquarium fish, you are aware not to just toss the newcomers into your aquarium. The same thing holds true for frogs. Your new frog may have issues that you need to identify and resolve before introducing into their final vivarium. When you bring home your new frog, it is important to quarantine them. Minimum quarantine time would be a week. You will want to observe your frog closely. Inspect it for any visual problems especially stress.
-Movement issues (walking or coordination issues) -Sores -Eating problems. If your frog has sores, lesions, wounds, bloated you will want to treat accordingly and only place it with other frogs after it has recovered. If your frog is not eating, you will want to observe it for problems. Does your frog seem to have a lack of interest in eating? It may be stressed or ill.
Isolate and quarantine your frogs if they have health issues to prevent other frogs getting those illnesses, bacterial infections, fungal infections or parasites. When in isolation your new frog will be better able to eat without competition from other frogs. A sick frog will not be able to eat as aggressively as a healthy frog which will lead to its quick demise. A quarantine enclosure can be as simple as a closed plastic shoe box container that is lined with moistened sphagnum moss and leaf litter. It is best to cover 3 of the 4 sides of an enclosure so that they are less distracted by motion or lights around them which may add to stress and stress related problems. Seek medical assistance for any such health issue. Once your frog is eating successfully you can consider adding to its new larger vivarium.
Adult male may reach 3.5” and females up to 4” and chubbier.
Visit www.TreeFrog.pet for more tree frog care information.